http://honda-tech.com Honda-Tech.com: The unofficial Honda and Acura Technical Resource Site en Mon, 21 May 2012 12:56:32 GMT vBulletin 60 http://images.ibsrv.net/ibsrv/res/src:honda-tech.com/get//images/misc/rss.jpg http://honda-tech.com http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=3057823&goto=newpost Mon, 21 May 2012 12:52:59 GMT Chris
Baltimore, MD
PM or Txt - 410-419-1521


JL Audio W3v2 10" 2-400 Rms 600 peak ,

Sub has a slight tear in the outside of the sub, price reflected if someone wants to try and fix it but the Sub sounds great minus the leak

30+ Shipping







JL Audio 250/1 Mono Amp -100 Shipped in the Continental US




. Stuff was barely used and is stupid Cheap, Each is 200+ brand new.

Infinity 10" 1000 watt peak sub in ported Box

75+ Shipping





Alpine PDX 1/600 Mono Amp, was bought for 600 brand new

*BROKEN* Is not getting power, Im taking offers if anyone wants to fix it.

]]> Mid-Atlantic (Sales) Chris1521 http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=3057823 http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=3057822&goto=newpost Mon, 21 May 2012 12:51:06 GMT 62mm come with sensors, Image: http://www.monchar.com/images/annonce/6700//6642_4848.jpg 100$ 62mm come with sensors,



100$ ]]> For Sale southsuicide http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=3057822 http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=3057821&goto=newpost Mon, 21 May 2012 12:51:02 GMT Chris
Baltimore, MD
PM or Txt - 410-419-1521


JL Audio W3v2 10" 2-400 Rms 600 peak ,

Sub has a slight tear in the outside of the sub, price reflected if someone wants to try and fix it but the Sub sounds great minus the leak

30+ Shipping







JL Audio 250/1 Mono Amp -100 Shipped in the Continental US




. Stuff was barely used and is stupid Cheap, Each is 200+ brand new.

Infinity 10" 1000 watt peak sub in ported Box

75+ Shipping





Alpine PDX 1/600 Mono Amp, was bought for 600 brand new

*BROKEN* Is not getting power, Im taking offers if anyone wants to fix it.

]]> For Sale Chris1521 http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=3057821 http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=3057819&goto=newpost Mon, 21 May 2012 12:42:57 GMT Hi Guys, I am doing my nephew a favor here...He has a 93' Prelude H22, he blew the motor up (badly!) Anyways...I got a hold of one of these JDM H22 motors.
This was a longblock with a brand new cometic HG & ARP studs, I bolted all components to the longblock...popped it in the car and it started immediately which was wonderful! Now....here's where it gets ugly, the cometic began seeping oil within 5 minutes...long story short, install was done incorrect...waaay over torqued.

I then put an OEM Honda HG on, torqued/sequenced up to 80 FT/LBS...now no spark at all. The small ground strap on passenger side is on and tight, crankshaft is right on the money (timing wise), verified TDC w/ a screwdriver in the #1 piston....locked the cams w/ a 5mm allen key, I dont think I can get this timing any more perfect! The coil is getting power, the wires going to the IDM are getting power as per the factory manual....it is pointing me to an IDM however I am having a very hard time believing the IDM failed between a HG change.

I moved the distributor around to see if any change...no go. The distributor looks fine and clean, no oil seepage. I do NOT smell fuel in the cylinders however I am assuming this is because it isn't sparking....so no fuel delivery?!?

Any logical sugg's would be appreciated, I am at a loss right now. I keep fighting with a timing issue as this is the only thing that was truely disturbed however everything is lining up as it should be and as it did originally when the car started up instantly. ]]> Honda Prelude firechaser http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=3057819 http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=3057816&goto=newpost Mon, 21 May 2012 11:14:43 GMT looking for a Aem injector driver box Text me @ 617-888-8985 looking for a Aem injector driver box
Text me @ 617-888-8985 ]]> Classifieds: Forced Induction boostaout http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=3057816 http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=3057815&goto=newpost Mon, 21 May 2012 10:04:32 GMT I replaced my exhaust manifold and catalytic converter about a year ago after I noticed the manifold had a big crack in it. It never gave any CEL... I replaced my exhaust manifold and catalytic converter about a year ago after I noticed the manifold had a big crack in it. It never gave any CEL code at that time however. A few months prior to that, the dealership didn't install the timing belt correctly and I was getting a bad pinging - but the sound went away when I figured that out and had them fix it. So I was driving for 3 months with a bad pinging due to the belt.

It's been a year since all that and the CEL gave the P0420 code for the first time today.

Other info:
220,000miles
2000 civic lx
33mpg highway last time I calc.
New fuel filter, spark plugs and wires a few months ago.

I'd like opinions on what the possible causes could be given what I've already fixed. Thanks. ]]> Honda Civic/Del Sol (1992 - 2000) zackn8 http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=3057815 http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=3057814&goto=newpost Mon, 21 May 2012 09:51:27 GMT Hello. What do you think about re-welding the chassis? I am building Civic EG and factory welds are quite dense. I know that many factory race teams... Hello.
What do you think about re-welding the chassis? I am building Civic EG and factory welds are quite dense. I know that many factory race teams are re-welding all body panels to make the chassis harder. Is that true? I am planning to install a roll cage in the car. Do i need to re-weld the chassis?
Thank you in advance! ]]> PARADOX_sf http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=3057814 http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=3057813&goto=newpost Mon, 21 May 2012 09:49:52 GMT hi honda-tech i have pro1 cam on my stock gsr and have a little problem... i have it install and not degree but set a skunk2 quick setting +3 ex -1... hi honda-tech i have pro1 cam on my stock gsr and have a little problem... i have it install and not degree but set a skunk2 quick setting +3 ex -1 in and got it tune on crome pro i make 178whp and 128torque.

It seem like it's not pulling when vtec kick in at 6200rpm it feel sluggish and vtec sounds a bit quiet, but once it pull to 8000 rpm you could hear vtec kickng in real hard plus pull real strong... i notice when vtec kick in my car still in under 150whp at 6200rpm until 7500rpm which i see most ppls dyno graph at 6000rpm they are at 150 already........ help me out????

My tuner dont want to mess with the camgear and say the setting is good :( i think it might be a bit off because for some reason why vtec would kick in like that, so sluggsh lmk what you guys think. my car have full bolt on

stock gsr block
aem cai
skunk2 intake manifold
with power throttle body 65mm
skunk2 mega power header
skunk2 mega power exhaust
stock gsr fuel pump
310cc rc injector
bdl fpr
ge fuel rai
ge cam gear
tuned on crome pro with p28 ecu

.....dyno graph here too

[/quote] ]]> All Motor allmotorgsr98 http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=3057813 http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=3057812&goto=newpost Mon, 21 May 2012 09:40:44 GMT Hey guys, now i know there are plenty of threads of this, and i apologize for posting another one:cry:, but i want my own questions and tips... Hey guys, now i know there are plenty of threads of this, and i apologize for posting another one:cry:, but i want my own questions and tips answered, or better yet, a guide and run through of what i need to do. :)

Now i have a 1995 Integra DB7, with a B18b1. ive only had it for a month or so, repairing things here and there. About the end of the month, my Motor blew.
IT was caused by a headgasket and i found out that the head needed to be resurfaced, causing a lost of oil.

okay theres the history of it.

Ive ended up ordering a 2000 B20b motor, and i was looking up on how to put this swap together and have it run good. (im looking for reliable car, not performance)

Now my questions.

- What do i need to swap from my b18 to my b20.
- the b20 is obd2, and ive heard that its just plug and play for my harness (obd1) - idk how, but they just say that. = explain?
- Do i need to change the pulley, sensors, oil / water pump? or could i just put the motor in as is without switching parts.

- my (FIT) valve broke on my thottle body, and i was hoping if the b20's will work. or if i had to switch the whole throttle body?

-And my A/c and Power steering. can i just use my LS ones, and it will work just fine?

- LS ecu okay?

Haha. :cry::scared::( sorry for all the questions, but i just want to be forsure on what i really need, and what i got to do. If you guys would take the time to discuss it with me, id be greatly appreciated. :hugs: Thanks guys. ]]> Acura Integra CampsDb7 http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=3057812 http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=3057811&goto=newpost Mon, 21 May 2012 09:35:43 GMT Looking to complete mi Mini-me swap. Still need a intake system for the Y8, I prefer stock one, but will take an aftermarket one if it's not too flashy.

Also need a knock sensor in good working condition.

Looking also for a 96-98 EX cabin harness or a O2 sensor cable extension. ]]> Want to Buy DAP97SI http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=3057811 http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=3057810&goto=newpost Mon, 21 May 2012 09:26:57 GMT http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-s...21872126&Log=0 ]]> Vehicles for sale termite587 http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=3057810 http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=3057809&goto=newpost Mon, 21 May 2012 08:56:48 GMT hi guys!i will select turbo precision!my question is the best for my project(b18c) with 10/1 compression is 62/65 cea ball bearing or 67/66 ball... hi guys!i will select turbo precision!my question is the best for my project(b18c) with 10/1 compression is 62/65 cea ball bearing or 67/66 ball bearing!the selection of turbos is cea new code! my project is for 700-750 whp hight boost in dragster and 600 whp on the road!! ]]> Drag Racing whitevteckiller http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=3057809 http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=3057808&goto=newpost Mon, 21 May 2012 08:54:22 GMT My Down Pipe on My H22A 4-2-1 header has a leak before the o2. So my o2 is riching the mixture. I going to get it welded but was wondering if Any one... My Down Pipe on My H22A 4-2-1 header has a leak before the o2. So my o2 is riching the mixture. I going to get it welded but was wondering if Any one knew any one that might have any JDM OEM down pipes laying around? The thing I don't want a aftermarket due to the lack of Reliability. If you have any ideas pass them along. This car is a daily driver. ]]> Honda Prelude fastlane2 http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=3057808 http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=3057807&goto=newpost Mon, 21 May 2012 08:02:28 GMT Price: 7,000 OBO NO TRADES Make: Acura Model: Integra Base: GSR Year: 2001 Color: Nighthawk Black Pearl Title: Clean (My Credit Union is... Price: 7,000 OBO NO TRADES
Make: Acura
Model: Integra
Base: GSR
Year: 2001
Color: Nighthawk Black Pearl
Title: Clean (My Credit Union is currently the lien holder)
Mileage: 138,300 and counting, daily driver
Auto check available


Mods
-AEM Short Ram Intake
-Blox Weighted Shift Knob
-Skunk 2 Short Shifter (not pictured on these pics)
-DDM Tuning 6000K HID Kit

Stock Parts Kept from replacing with Mods
-Air Box
-Shift Knob
-Shifter

Stereo/Alarm
-Pioneer Head unit with AUX input and iPod ready connection
-Viper Alarm System (both sets of remotes on hand)
-Stock speakers

Maintenance Records: I have most of maintenance records that were performed on the car since I bought it last year. Including the parts that were bought and installed.

Parts replaced
-Timing Belt/Water Pump (Continental)
-Fuel Pump (Denso)
-Clutch (OEM Exedy)
-Serpentine Belts (Gates)
-Spark Plugs (Denso)
-Spark Plug Wires (NGK)
-Fuel Filter (forgot brand but it was Japanese)
-Lower O2 Sensor (NGK)
-Radiator Cap (Honda)
-Not replaced, but adjusted valves

Oils Used in car since I owned it
-Castrol GTX High Mileage 10-30 (Engine)
-Acura MTF (Transmission)
-Acura PSF

Interior: Very clean interior with no rips or tears on any of the OEM floor mats(not shown) or seats, panels, headliner, etc. Power steering and AC/Heat work perfect.

Exterior: Paint still shines and looks great, no fading. However, you will see some slight dings on the door. The car was in a minor fender bend on the right, however, it was repaired through insurance. AutoCheck shows a clean title. I still have some before pictures from the accident. It really was minor. Car does have window tint with 5% in the back and I believe 20% front.

All in all the car is amazing and it has never let me down. Car performs great and I’m sure it will do the same for you. There is nothing to hide in this sale and to the serious buyer we can talk in greater detail about this ride. Don’t hesitate to ask me any questions.

No free joy rides, must be a serious buyer so, that means cash in hand with valid drivers license.

Contact me via PM, you can then ask for my e-mail or cell so we can talk further.

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[IMG][/IMG] ]]> Southern California (Sales) Psycho719 http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=3057807 http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=3057805&goto=newpost Mon, 21 May 2012 07:14:56 GMT not sure on the name of the part but its a thin metal rod that connects to both sides to make the seat slide back and fourth. Image:... not sure on the name of the part but its a thin metal rod that connects to both sides to make the seat slide back and fourth.


Shot at 2012-05-20
]]> Southern California (Sales) Peruviann83 http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=3057805