build a b series or build my d series motor ?

[Alexpbnj]

so im debating on buying a b18 and building it and eventually turboing it or just saving some money and building my d series sohc and going turbo , any advice?

[EsotericImage]

might as build the one u already have and be that much closer to your goal.

[miguel329]

what is your power goal?

[VTECROAR96typeR]

well if i was going for turbo, and had a d series I would most likely build that instead. depending on how much you get a b18 for and what b18 motor you are going for. I currently have a b18cR that is fully built to be n/a. A motor like mine would be a motor i would not mount a turbo on.

Yes you will get alot more power froma built b series than a d, but why would you want all that power.. you are only going to be able to go straight

[Alexpbnj]

im looking to get like 270

[Alexpbnj]

but i would like to know what type of parts i should buy for my d series to make it reliable yet fun

[chewyv]

Originally Posted by Alexpbnj

but i would like to know what type of parts i should buy for my d series to make it reliable yet fun

270 with reliability and fun.
Choices
A: Buy a built D on h-t marketplace/craigslist/shop
B: Find a h-t sponsor and harass him
C: Go to the f/i thread and copy builds from other members
D: Buy complete turbo kit or do a home made kit. Buy pistons, rods, valve train upgrade, tires, chrome/hondata/handcommand ecu program plus tune, and thats it for the most basic of things.

[Alexpbnj]

sponsor? i never heard of a sponsor on here actually, and im just wondering what type of pistons rods etc people have used with good reputations

[met]

If I understand it right sponsors names are red. But on the engine choice all I can do is tell you what I did, I had a d16y8 and in the same situtation as you are. I mostly have been doing searches and found pretty much everything I have ever wanted to know. The are a few people here with d-series that have good hp, but for ease of getting parts and more popular I went with a B series. K series stuff I think is over priced still. I got a b18c, did the swap got a hondata and dyno tuned it. Like that the car was quicker than my 02 mustang gt with a few bolt on mods. I hydrolocked the engine a month or so ago, now its at Laskey racing getting built. Im trying to figure now if I want to drop the money now for turbo or wait a bit. I guess my point is the engine will be able to handle 700-800hp. Hope this helps.

[Alexpbnj]

met when you dyno tuned it how much hp were you throwin down? sorry to seem like a pain just trying to learn some info on b series ,

[met]

170hp @ 8600, it was on a mustang dyno so I think the rpms were off so realisticaly it was probably 8200-8300. I will try and get my chart scanned and uploaded.

[Alexpbnj]

thanks, that sounds pretty sick gl with your build, im planning on ripping my motor out this winter and building it so well see what happens

[Alexpbnj]

im thinking of buying a b18b found a full obd 2 complete motor for like 700 just would have to buy a tranny, any ideas on what tranny to buy? and any advices on what to do with a b18 motor? such as tuning ecu and ways to build?

[Korman]

$700 actually is way too much for an LS longblock. I sometimes see full B16 swaps in decent health for just a bit more.

A B18B only has 142 HP. For $800 you could buy an F20B complete longblock (just needs a trans, just like the LS) from H-motors with less than 30,000 miles and have 200 HP (and the headache of installing a H-series motor).

A full LS swap including trans, mounts, ECU, and harness usually goes for less than $700.

[Alexpbnj]

well if i buy a b18b1 i found a bunch now for like 500 w/o tge trans, id want to run a b16 tranny ive read they have alot better gearing. im wondering will my stock axels be able to work with that? and i need to buy a harness and ecu for the motor whats the best setup for the ecu harness combination, also how do i change my 98 civic which has obd2 over to obd 1 and pass incspection next year?

[Korman]

you'll need b-series axles. b series axles are equal length, unlike d-series. B series axles should bolt right on though.

About converting to OBD1 and passing, well, you don't. You keep it OBD2. You'll either need an OBD2 engine or you'll need to convert the sensors and distributor. In places where they check emissions by scanning the OBD2 port, it is technically illegal to put an engine older than the car into the car and operate it on any road.

You'll need a 98+ engine. It'd just be a much better idea to swap in a B16 swap from an Si. It'd be faster as well. The last advantage is that the engine actually comes from a civic so they shouldn't give you any crap at inspection time. All of the northeast US is pretty strict about emissions tests. Not as strict as California, but still pretty serious.

Don't build something you'll just have to take apart every other year.

[Nichelson_Performance]

Built D16 turbo all the way....you can pretty much build a D for around a grand minus the turbo kit and will crush most n/a bseries and most ls turbo cars....I made 254whp on a mustang dyno which is 10-12% lower than dynojets so I'd be right around or little more than your goal and all I have is a built bottom end....head and valvetrain are stock plus having a y8 head is a deffiency too as they were made to comply with emissions...so throw a z6 head on my build with a zex 59300cam and valvetrain and I easily have a 400whp capable car that will run with almost any turbo bseries but not all
The power I'm making now is pretty crazy for the street now...anything over 300 is pretty worthless to me since I don't drag race instead I roadtrack my car

Vitara with FJR specs rods are the way to go for dseries

[phaphon]

i have a b16 that i want to sell but dont know that much about shipping motors i have everything you need though 98 jdm b16a with paper and a ls tranny casing is crack but tranny is still good i also have the wiring harness from a eg though and i converted the dizzy to a obd1 but its a obd2 type r dizzy and it has type r valve springs i also have cams and sk2 manifold for right price... i will learn how to ship = )

[Ellerstein12]

I say just build up your d series man... I've seen some crazy numbers out of a d series and if it blows up you can pick up another d series motor for cheap.

[4g4dcruisin]

Build up the D, more reliable than a B, and far superior in every way, IMO.

[EG1PJT]

Its a personal choice I think between d and b series for turbo you can build your d series to handle the turbo if you build it yourself for the same price as a b series so you got to think will you get the turbo bug??? if you do it will cost you more at the end to build your d instead of a b series. But if you know how to control yourself and want to see 270WHP ish numbers I would stay with the D because you already have it. If you look into super street july edition they test 6 different cams on a common d16 tubo platform which consists of vitara's, eagle rods, sk2 valve train, and other goodies and with the bisi 2.4 cam they got 381 WHP and 264 lb ft of torque. This is just an example of what can be had with a d. but if you build your bottom end to handle the boost and drop a z6 head you should have your goal. Another reason to build your d is you can get some eagle rods and vitaras plus some machine work for around the price of an ls swap so its up to you but since you already have a d i would say stay.

[Wdpfreak145]

You might want to look into getting a k-swap. It will be nowhere near your power goal, but they are getting to be very popular swaps and honda tuning just put out a full write-up on how to do one for much less than previously estimated. I believe the did theres for about $3500. That included motor, tranny, ecu, shifter, cables, wiring harness, mounts, etc. Keep in mind they did a k24a swap (w/o vtec) but it still turned out really great. They used the motor and tranny from an accord with a crv ecu I think. I'll have to look into it and read through it again.

Anyways, it will cost a good bit of money. But, in the long run you may be able to pull it out and build it for turbo and have a bad-ass setup.

[Korman]

I think the biggest problem everyone is forgetting here is inspection. What good is a car you cannot drive?

Also, B series is better than D series in nearly every sense of the word. The *least* powerful B series is more powerful than the *most* powerful D series.

They both take turbos well, but the thing about a D series being more reliable on boost is also a myth. If we assume stock internals and a decent setup, a B16 making 250 WHP will be FAR more reliable than a D series making the same amount of power. B series are just better built engines.

That doesn't mean don't turbo the D. D series are fine engines and are great with turbos. The thing is a B16 is just better than that. Dollar for dollar, you may get more keeping your D.

Also, the idea of just replacing the D-series if it fails is pretty flawed as well. What good is a car that you aren't sure is going to run every time you turn the key? Finding a healthy Y8 swap to replace it really isn't chump change.

Don't cheap out. If you don't spend the money the first time, you'll just be spending it again when something breaks. If you want it fast and reliable, it's going to cost some money up front.

[4g4dcruisin]

Originally Posted by Korman

I think the biggest problem everyone is forgetting here is inspection. What good is a car you cannot drive?

Also, B series is better than D series in nearly every sense of the word. The *least* powerful B series is more powerful than the *most* powerful D series.

They both take turbos well, but the thing about a D series being more reliable on boost is also a myth. If we assume stock internals and a decent setup, a B16 making 250 WHP will be FAR more reliable than a D series making the same amount of power. B series are just better built engines.

That doesn't mean don't turbo the D. D series are fine engines and are great with turbos. The thing is a B16 is just better than that. Dollar for dollar, you may get more keeping your D.

Also, the idea of just replacing the D-series if it fails is pretty flawed as well. What good is a car that you aren't sure is going to run every time you turn the key? Finding a healthy Y8 swap to replace it really isn't chump change.

Don't cheap out. If you don't spend the money the first time, you'll just be spending it again when something breaks. If you want it fast and reliable, it's going to cost some money up front.

Alright DOHC fan boy, the d16a6 can handle up to ~220hp on stock internals. Besides that, any D series is a straight forward application, as far as installation goes.

[Nichelson_Performance]

I may be wrong but doesn't a Y8 make more power than an LS. Also I don't know where anyone gets that dseries are weaker than bseries especially comparing to nonvtec bseries....I daily drive my built y8 on 20psi revving to 8200 on a copmpletely stock head and it starts up everytime I turn the key......too many people give false information on single cams....and not all bseries are better built engines, this can only be said about b16's and b18c's including the type r...I'm not going into detail but I've seen more bseries sh*t the bed over dseries